Post first surf of the day
Smiling ☺
“Every man and his dog is out here!” said my friend as he paddled past in the surf.
He makes me laugh so much.
That was a few afternoons ago. After school time – peak hour!
Thousands of grommets and the workers who have knocked off for the day.
So you can imagine my joy because I’ve just returned from surfing with only one other guy out.
It was so much fun!
The water is getting chillier – that’s for sure but it really doesn’t bother me.
It’s just such a joy to get out there.
Duck–diving and opening my eyes under the water. The white clouds of foam are so pretty.
Catching a few waves and gliding across is such a feeling of freedom. I made it. This is easy!
As the waves come and I decipher whether to paddle into them or not a thought whispers in my head, there is nothing to be afraid of. Just go for it. It’s actually really soft!
So I go. The wave is not scary at all. What would be so scary anyway? It is really soft! What was I thinking?
So that has been my lesson for the day – being hesitant gets you nowhere! The more you go for it – the more fun you have and you realise it is actually really easy.
A few weeks ago a friend said to me in the surf,
“You have to go for it!”
This is a part of surfing.
Just breathe and go for it.
On a recent holiday a friend made me laugh so much when he said this poem to me,
“Worry is like a rocking chair –
You rock back and forth
but you don’t go anywhere!”
This is so true.
Always remember these wise words I learnt years ago –
Never hurry and never worry.
You only have one destiny – to be yourself and live life.
The more you do it the better it gets.
The same friend had said,
“Be wise – it’s the only way.”
Surfing – does anything compare?
There is no confusion.
Just you and the wave.
It’s like a dance – you know when you are being graceful and in time because when you’re not the wave will let you know.
So waves are almost like good friends, guiding and teaching you.
A friend is someone who knows the song in your heart and can sing it back to you when you have forgotten the words.
The song in my heart is a tranquil melody that has been soothed by the ocean water. Peaceful and still I am smiling so brightly.
Yes another surf is definitely on the cards.
Ash
